When starting up your pool, it is important that the pool is started correctly. Follow this guide and you will be able to enjoy your pool and have a successful swimming season.
1. Assemble all pool components
To start, begin by assembling all pool components to create a complete pool, including the inlet, skimmer, lights, hoses, circulation pump, sand filter, and any heat pump.
The sand filter and circulation pump should be placed in a technical box near the pool, with the circulation pump mounted below water level.
- Dimensions 1.13 x 1.13 meters with a height of 1.0 meter.
- Make drainage holes in the box and drainage underneath it.
- Also, place a roof on the box, if not already present, to avoid direct rain.
- A frost guard is also useful during the winter months.
- The box should be prepared with 220 volt outlets.
- Ensure all connections are tight before starting.
All electrical connections, such as for the heat pump, lights, circulation pump, etc., MUST be connected by a certified electrician.
2. Fill the pool with water
Fill the pool until the water level is in the center of the skimmer opening.
3. Fill the strainer basket housing on the pump with water
NOTE! The pump must under no circumstances be started without water, as this risks damaging the shaft seal.
4. Open the valves
Open the valves for the suction, return, and waste outlets.
5. Set the pump to backwash
Set the arrow on the central valve handle to backwash. Press down the handle to facilitate turning.
6. Start the pump
Once the pump has removed air from the suction line (after approx. 1-3 minutes) and water passes the sight glass on the central valve's waste outlet, backwash for approx. 1-2 minutes or until the water in the sight glass is clear. Note! The electric heater must be turned off.
7. Stop the pump
8. Turn the sand filter knob to Filter.
9. Turn on the circulation and heat pump
Turn on the circulation pump and heat pump. More air may come out of the system for a short period here.
The pool's circulation system
Water flows out of the pool via a skimmer, which is equipped with a flap that adjusts to the water surface.
This increases the flow velocity of the surface water, causing debris on the pool's surface to be sucked into the skimmer.
Debris collects in a strainer basket, which should be emptied regularly, approximately once a week, depending on the surroundings.
The water circulates back to the pool, purified and heated, through the pool's inlet nozzles.
These should be directed slightly outwards or downwards to transport debris towards the skimmer.
pH value
The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, where pH 7 is neutral.
Higher than 7 gives alkaline water, and lower than 7 gives acidic water.
The optimal pH value in a swimming pool is 7.2 - 7.6.
Low pH value causes:
- Aggressive water, which damages the pool's mechanical components
- Irritated eyes and mucous membranes
- Damage to the pool liner
High pH value causes:
- Reduced chlorine disinfection
- Skin irritation
- Limescale precipitation
- Cloudiness
Chlorine preparations are divided into organic and inorganic
Organic chlorine is trichloroisocyanuric acid (weekly chlorine) and dichloroisocyanuric acid (fast-dissolving and suitable for smaller pools).
Inorganic chlorine is calcium hypochlorite (daily and shock chlorine) and sodium hypochlorite (liquid).
Common to organic and inorganic chlorine is that when dosed into the swimming pool, it is free chlorine, i.e., it attacks bacteria and impurities.
As the chlorine works, it transitions from free to combined chlorine
Combined chlorine (also called chloramines) is ineffective, smells of chlorine, and can cause irritation to eyes and mucous membranes.
Combined chlorine is reduced by dilution with fresh water from the municipal network.
The temporarily high chlorine level formed during shock chlorination disappears fairly quickly in an outdoor pool but can also be lowered with chlorine-reducing agents.
Chlorine is continuously consumed in the pool, and various factors determine chlorine consumption, including bathing frequency, water temperature, sunlight, and pool size.
Test kits/photometers are used to measure chlorine levels.
Most measure free chlorine, but to measure combined chlorine, one needs to measure total chlorine.
Total chlorine is the sum of free and combined chlorine
When using organic chlorine (weekly chlorine), cyanuric acid accumulates in the pool.
At cyanuric acid levels above 100 ppm (mg/l), chlorine blocking occurs, rendering the chlorine ineffective. If chlorine blocking occurs, the water smells bad, the chlorine odor becomes strong, and the water becomes cloudy.
Cyanuric acid is lowered by dilution with fresh water from the municipal network.
There are many small test devices that photometrically measure the water's chlorine content, alkalinity, pH, and cyanuric acid content with great accuracy.
A very helpful tool for you as a pool owner.
Standard routines
- Pool water should be shock chlorinated every 2-4 weeks, depending on bathing load.
- Always dose chemicals in the evening after the last swim of the day.
- Do not mix chemicals with each other, nor different types of chlorine.
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